Breeding Information

Before you breed your Yorkie, you need to decide whether or not she is a good candidate for breeding. No female should be bred before the age of 2.  She is not physically nor emotionally mature enough.  She needs to grow and develop her reproduction system before going through the physical exertion of breeding and whelping puppies.  You should be preparing her for breeding from the time she is a pup.  Provide her with quality nutrition and good health care. I use an excellent quality brand of foods.  

Obedience training can be indispensable.  There are times when a female will get overly anxious when her new puppies start crying.  Being able to put her on a down and stay can allow the puppies to get to their food at her belly with less anxiety.  This can give you and your Yorkie peace of mind.

Your Yorkie should be well socialized. She will be a happier Yorkie if she has activities in her life and goes places with you and does fun things. If she is happier, she will make a better mother to her puppies.  You should take your female to other breeders or, a better choice, start showing her in CKC events.  The best way to ensure that you are improving the breed is to breed quality Yorkies with other quality Yorkies, minimizing faults and strengthening good qualities.  We all love our little girls but you will need to look long and hard at her and decide if she's really worthy of breeding. Sometimes, as Yorkie owners, we don’t see the flaws that our Yorkies have.  CKC events give us a better idea of whether or not our dogs are worthy of breeding.  Some people won't breed a female until she's earned her Championship in the show ring.  If you aren’t willing or cannot show her, then at least have her evaluated by another, more knowledgeable person.  Any experienced Yorkie show breeder should be able to help you evaluate your female honestly.

Health care is essential.  Ensure that her teeth are well looked after so she won't get infections and become weak.  Pregnancy, delivery, and puppy raising are very stressful on a Yorkie and knowing that you love her, combined with good health care, makes whelping her puppies a happy and less stressful event. She'll trust you to help with the puppies instead of feeling that she must defend them.  You will need to have various health checks done in order to determine whether or not your dog should be bred.  Very important! You should consult a good book on Yorkies or ask a knowledgeable breeder to determine what tests you'll need to have done.  You can find some info on my Yorkie Health Page.  Many believe that Liver Shunt testing should be done because of the rise in numbers of small breed dogs who contract this possibly hereditary disease.

You should request testing from the stud dog owner as well as providing your results to them.


Information gathered off the WWW, books, experience and advice.

Keep the following information on file for each female and litter she produces:

Heat Record
1. Name of the female
2. Date of last heat
3. Date of heat start
4. Smear date and results
5. Progesterone Test date and results (if completed)
6. Mating dates and comments on mating
7. Palpitation dates and results
8. Ultrasound date and results
9. X-ray date and results
10. Notes on pregnancy
11. Track weight gain weekly
12. Track temperature from day 58-65, 3 times daily
13. Date and time whelping began
14. Date and time whelping ended
15. Notes on whelping

Litter Records
1. Litter Number (way to differentiate between litters at your kennel)
2. Registered name and CKC number of dam
3. Registered name and CKC number of sire
4. Sire's owner's name
5. Date mated
6. Date litter whelped
7. Number of male puppies born
8. Number of female puppies born
9. CKC Litter Number
10. Sex, Colour/Markings, Puppy ID number, Date Sold, Date Deceased, Name
and address of person to whom sold, Dates when following paperwork was
supplied: registration application or certificate and bill of sale.

Additional Litter Information
1. Time each puppy was born
2. Ribbon or nail polish colour or other identifying mark(s)
3. Colour of puppy
4. Sex
5. Weight at birth
6. Length at birth
7. A description of any problems
8. Whelping date
9. Sire and Dam
10. Time whelping started and ended
11. Notes on whelping

Puppy Records
1. Ribbon/Nail polish colour/marking
2. Call Name if you have one
3. Registered Name
4. Sex
5. Colour
6. CKC Litter #
7. CKC Registration #
8. Date of Birth
9. Sire and Dam
10. Weight at Birth and when sold
11. Vaccinations Given (Date and Type)
12. Owner (include address and telephone numbers)
13. Date sold
14. Conditions of sale and/or contract
15. Price
16. Notes on Development and Temperament
17. Track the weight of the puppies daily until they are three weeks old
and then weekly.

Litter Registration Application
Contact CKC and download this form or do an on line litter registration (if you are a CKC member). Once puppies are whelped, complete this form and have stud dog owner sign the form or accept the on-line application. Send the completed form with appropriate fee to CKC. You should submit this form as soon as the puppies are whelped.

Puppy Registration Forms
For each puppy listed on the Litter Registration Application, you will receive a registration form. Most breeders insist on their kennel name being the first word in the dog’s name. Also some breeders have themes for their litters and require the name of the puppy to fit into that theme. You could, if desired, ask the buyer what name they would like to appear on the CKC Certificate. Make any special requirements known to the buyers well in advance so they can pick out an appropriate name for their puppy.



Information gathered off the WWW, books, experience and advice.

Breeding Guideline

Pre-Season:
Choose your stud dog well in advance.  Let the stud dog owner know when you expect your female to come in season.

Have a backup stud dog just in case your first choice becomes unavailable.

Have your female examined by a veterinarian to ensure she is healthy.

When your female is ready:

As soon as you see first signs of your female coming into season, contact the stud dog owner.  If the stud dog is out-of-the-area, you will need enough time for shipping arrangements to be made.

If you are shipping the female, the stud dog owner will pick the dog up at the airport and will need all the female's information.  You should send all your paperwork with the female.  You can just tape an envelope to the crate.

If you are delivering the dog personally, get good directions and bring all your paperwork.

If this is your female's first breeding, you will need to know when she is ready to be bred.  Ask your veterinarian about smears and/or progesterone testing.  This will help you pinpoint the right time to get your female to the stud dog.  This will typically be between days 10 and 15 but could be much earlier or later.

When the female comes home:

Your female will likely stay with the stud dog owner for a week or two.

When your female comes home, you should get some paperwork with her from the stud dog owner, including (but not limited to) copies of the stud dog's health clearances, copy of the stud dog's pedigree, and information on when the female was bred.


Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.

Pregnancy Guideline

WEEK ONE (DAYS 1 - 7)

Development of the puppies

• Fertilization occurs.
• 2 cell embryos are in the oviduct.
• The embryo is fairly resistant to external interference in development.
• Normal daily activities are not restricted.
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Possible morning sickness.
• Possible personality changes.
  
  Care of the female
  
• Normal feeding.
• Check any and all medications with vet prior to administering.
• No insecticides (i.e., flea treatments).
• No live vaccines.
  
  To do list
  
• Put together pedigree on litter.
• Write contract.
• Contact CKC for litter registration application if not doing it on-line.
• Start taking puppy reservations.
  
  WEEK TWO (DAYS 8-14)
  
  Development of the puppies
  
• Embryo will be 4 cell at start of week and 64 cell by end of week.
• Embryo enters the uterus.
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Possible morning sickness.
  
  Care of the female
  
• Continue as with Week One.
  
  To do list
  
• Nothing special this week.
  
  WEEK THREE (DAYS 15-21)
  
  Development of the puppies
  
• Day 19 the embryos implants onto uterus.
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Possible morning sickness.
  
  Care of the female
  
• Continue as with Week One.
  
  To do list
  
• Nothing special this week.
  
  WEEK FOUR (DAYS 22-28)
  
  Development of the puppies
  
• Development of eyes and spinal cords.
• Faces take shape.
• Fetuses grow from 5-10 mm to 14-15 mm.
• Embryos are at their most susceptible to defects.
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Possible clear vaginal discharge Mammary development begins
  
  Care of the female
  
• After Day 26, palpitation may be possible to diagnose pregnancy.
• Days 28 - 32 are the best days to palpitate (i.e.. feel for the puppies.)
• Limit strenuous activity (such as working, jumping, long runs.
  
  To do list
  
• Schedule ultrasound or palpitation with vet if desired.
  
  WEEK FIVE (DAYS 29-35)
  
  Development of the puppies.
  
• Development of toes, whisker buds, and claws.
• Fetuses look like dogs.
• Gender can be determined.
• Eyes (previously open) now close.
• Fetuses grow from 18 mm - 30 mm.
• Embryos are fairly resistant to interference with development.
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Swelling becomes noticeable.
• Loss of "tuck-up" at her abdomen.
• Weight will start to increase.
  
  Care of the female
  
• Slightly increase amount of food.
• If you feed one meal a day, add an extra meal.
• If you feed twice a day, slightly increase one of the meals if weight management is required.
• Palpitation no longer possible due to fluids in uterus.
  
  To do list
  
• Nothing special this week.
  
  WEEK SIX (DAYS 36-42)
  
  Development of the puppies
  
• Development of skin pigment.
• Fetuses should weigh around 6 grams and be 45 mm long.
• Fetal heartbeats can be heard with stethoscope.
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Nipples darken and enlarge.
• Abdomen continues to enlarge.
  
  Care of the female
  
• Increase the amount of food in the extra meal (if added the week before.) or increase a meal.
• Remember a female should not be overweight to carry and deliver puppies!!
• Female should start sleeping in whelping box.
  
  To do list
  
• Assemble whelping box.
• By this time you should be fairly sure that the female is pregnant.
• Notify the people on your puppy list.
• Let them know when you expect delivery.
  
  WEEK SEVEN (DAYS 43-49)
  
  Development of the puppies
  
• Growth and development continues.
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Abdomen hair may start shedding.
• The female will start to look pregnant at this point.
  
  Care of the female
  
• Slightly increase both meals.
  
  To do list
  
• Stop any roughhousing or jumping.
• Radiographs (X-rays) earliest possible time to determine number of puppies.
  (Only radiograph once in a pregnancy unless medically needed for a c-section!!)
  
  WEEK EIGHT (DAYS 50-57)
  
  Development of the puppies
  
• Fetal movement can be detected when female is at rest.
• Puppies may possibly be safely be born after Day 55 - 56 (does not apply to all breeds).
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Milk may be squeezed from nipples.
• The female will be very large.
• Radiographs (X-rays) may be able to determine number of puppies.
  (Only radiograph once a pregnancy unless medically needed for a c-section!!)
  
  Care of the female
  
• Add moderate lunch.
  
  To do list
  
• Gather whelping kit (see Whelping).
• Prepare phone list for help/support.
  It should include your vet's phone number, the emergency clinic's phone number, the number of any friends who will be offering support during whelping, and anyone else you might need to contact before, during, or after whelping (like your office to let them know you won't be in!).
• Make sure your car is gassed up and ready for a possible emergency trip to the vet's office.
  
  WEEK NINE (DAYS 58-65)
  
  Development of the puppies
  
• Growth and Development continues.
• Best time for radiographs (X-rays) are Day 58 - 60 to determine number of puppies and size.
  (Only radiograph once a pregnancy unless medically needed for a c-section!!)
  
  Changes in the female
  
• Nesting behaviour may be seen.
• Female may become distressed (panting, pacing, acting uncomfortable).
• Temperature should be around 37.9 - 38.2 degrees Celsius (100.2 - 100.8 degrees Fahrenheit).
• When temperature drops to around 36.3 - 37.4 degrees Celsius (98 - 99.4 degrees Fahrenheit), puppies should be born within 24 hours.
• Appetite may disappear as whelping approaches.
  
  Care of the female
  
• Start taking temperature three times a day.
  
  To do list
  
• Notify vet or emergency clinic when temperature drops so that they will be ready if you have any problems.
• Keep detailed records on temperature and behavior of female.
• Double check that whelping supplies are ready.
  
  POST PARTUM
  
• Make sure each puppy gets some of the female's colostrum (first milk) within first 24 hours.
• Lochia (vaginal discharge) should be reddish to reddish-brown (some green is okay).
  If you see black or lots of dark green discharge, contact your vet immediately!
  
• Within 5-6 hours of last puppy's birth you may take female and puppies to vet for check up.
  The vet will ensure that the female hasn't retained any puppies or placentas and that the puppies are in good health.
• I do not recommend vet visits at this time unless you are concerned about unhealthy puppies, retained puppies or missing placentas.
  
  You especially want to check for cleft palates as these puppies probably won't survive and should be euthanized now.
  
  Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.

Preparing Your Whelping Kit

Car
Have your car ready in case you have to make a quick trip to the vet's office. You may want to have someone to drive while you sit with your female. Take some towels with you because it is very common for a female to begin delivering with the motion of the car. Protect your car's carpeting and upholstery with a sheet or blanket that can be washed. Make sure the car is gassed up and ready to go.

Whelping Box
Make a box with sides large enough for the female to stretch out comfortably. She and the pups will live in the box for the first few weeks. The whelping box should have guard rails extending from the sides and about 2 inches from the bottom to protect the puppies from their mother rolling over on them.

Newspapers, peepads or towels
Keep a good supply of newspapers, peepads or towels on hand to line the whelping box during the actual whelping. As the papers become messy, you can just put a new layer down and clean the whole thing up when the whelping is over.

Trash Can
Keep a trash can on hand for use during the whelping and while the pups are growing up. Puppies are messy!

Incubator Box
You'll need a smaller box on hand to put the puppies in when Mom is delivering another puppy. You don't want the pups to get cold so line it with a towel and keep it near a heat source. You can put a heating pad or a heat wheat bag under the towel. A clean small laundry basket works well for this if a big litter or a "Critter" container which are is easy to carry when you need to take the pups to the vet for their first checkup.

Sharp Safety Scissors
For cutting the umbilical cord. You can rip the cord as well if you are using two hemostats. Tear between the hemostats.

Quick Stop Powder
To stop bleeding, if there is any, after cutting umbilical cord. Usually not required if you leave the hemostats on long enough.

Betadine or Iodine
For cleaning umbilical cord end after cut. I honestly do not use this much nowadays. The hempstats left on will be all that is required.

Hemostat forceps
For clamping off the umbilical cord before cutting it. You can use two and tear the cord as an alternative to cutting it. This helps inhibit bleeding.

Dental Floss
Used to tie off the umbilical cord after cutting it.

Surgical Gloves
Use if you have to help deliver the puppies.

Digital Thermometer
For checking the female's temperature in the week before her due date.

Bulb Syringe
For helping clear out puppies who are born with problems.

Flashlight
Puppies always seem to come in the middle of the night and if you need to let your female go outside, you'll need to keep a close eye on her. A good strong flashlight will make that easier.

Leash and flat buckle collar
Same reason as above. If you take her out on a leash, she's less likely to disappear into a dark corner and leave a puppy there without your knowledge.

Clock
For timing the whelping and the time between puppies.

Notebook
For recording details.

Rickrack Ribbon or Nail Polish
For identifying puppies. Tie a loose bit around each pups neck when you check them out and weigh them after birth or paint a nail of each pup a different colour. Re-apply every few days.

Food Scale
For weighing the puppies at birth and daily thereafter. See Raising Puppies Guidelines Page

Heating Lamp/Heating Pad
A 100 watt bulb installed with a dimmer switch (the dimmer switch will allow you to control the heat) in one corner of the box will allow puppies to move toward the heat if they are too cool or use a heating pad under their bed. I prefer a heating pad under the bed.

Fan
If the weather is very hot, you should keep a fan on hand. This is more for the mother than the pups. Don't set the fan up to blow directly on the pups but rather to move the air across the top of the whelping box. If the mother is panting a lot in the whelping box once she's finished and has rested, set the fan up so that she can cool down and be comfortable with the puppies.

Whelping Box Pads or Blankets
While the pups are still in the whelping box, you will need to keep a blanket or pad in their box. This pad will need to be changed twice a day or more, depending on how well the dam cleans up after the pups. A piece of fleece with a towel sewn to the back the same size as the whelping box makes a great pad. They can be washed and bleached to keep them clean. Having four on hand will keep you from having to do endless laundry. Don't put these pads in the whelping box until the whelping is over.
Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.

On day 58 after the first breeding, you should start taking your female's temperature about three times a day.   A female's temperature will drop from around 101.4 F/38.6 C to about 99/37.2 C or below a few hours (sometimes up to 24 hours) before she is ready to deliver.   A fluctuation in temperature is very normal but not a dramatic drop to below 99F.  The temperature drop is the best indicator of imminent whelping.  Other signs of imminent whelping are restlessness, discomfort, licking, nesting and looking at her vulva.  The female may refuse food prior to whelping as well.  She will possibly pant heavily.

These are all signs that whelping is very close.  Call your veterinarian or breeder and let them know that the whelping has started so that they will be ready to answer any questions or give advice if you have any problems.  The female will start pushing and straining at some point and may start digging at the bedding.  She will pant heavily between contractions.  The contractions should be visible in the muscles along her back.  You will see them start at the top of her body and move down.

If the labour continues for an hour or so without producing a puppy, take the female go outside and walk around.  This can help her labour progress.  Also, the urge to push can feel, to the female, as if she has to defecate.  A well-trained female will not want to mess in the house and may fight the urge to push, delaying her labour.  If the female is willing to go outside, keep a very close eye on her.  Bring a flashlight with you at night.  You may want to put her on a lead so she cannot hide in trees or bushes.  A maiden female may not know what to do with a new puppy and may abandon it out there.

If she pushing continues for more than one hour without producing a puppy, call your vet immediately!  You will most likely need to take the female in to the vet for emergency care.

If the labour is normal, the contractions will come faster and the female will start pushing seriously.  The water sac will appear, possibly break, and the puppy should be delivered shortly afterwards.  The placenta may or may not be ready to be delivered yet.  You may gently pull on the cord to see if it will come but you should never, never pull on the puppy or force the placenta to come.  You may pull the cord off the puppy and risk an umbilical hernia.

The female may want to eat the placentas.  Opinions vary about whether or not this is a good idea.  Some breeders think it's good nutrition for the female when she's working so hard.  Others think that the female may get diarrhea from eating to many of them.  Some breeders compromise by letting the female eat one and then keeping the rest away from her.  You just want to make sure you have a placenta delivered for each puppy born.  If the female should retain a placenta, she is at risk of having a serious infection.

If you want to keep the placentas away from her, you will need to clear the water sac away from the puppy's nose and mouth first.  Hold the puppy upside down to help drain fluid and mucus from its nose and throat.  Rub the puppy very vigorously, even roughly, with a dry, clean towel until the puppy squeaks.  This rubbing will both clean the puppy and stimulate it to start breathing.

Many breeders allow the female to clean the puppy and chew off the umbilical cord herself.  Others worry that the female may chew the cord off too close to the puppy resulting in an umbilical hernia and want to deal with this themselves just to be safe.  If you do this yourself, you will need to tie it off with plain dental floss and cut the cord about 1" away from the body.  Dip the tip and the floss in Betadine solution (or another disinfectant like iodine). I use a clamp then and tie off with the dental floss.  It will dry up and drop off in a day or so.

Once the pup is breathing and clean, you will want to check the puppy out carefully, weigh and measure the pup, check for abnormalities such as cleft palate, and identify the puppy in some way.  Ribbon works good or nail polish. Measure and cut a ribbon piece large enough to tie loosely around the puppy's neck or paint each puppies nail a different colour.  Re-apply every few days.  This is only necessary if your puppies are very similar. Other ways to mark the puppies include clipping bits of their fur on different parts of their bodies.  I find I can identify each easily from their unique markings.

If the female is having a break between puppies, you should let the puppy nurse.  The colostrum (milk produced in the first 24 hours) is extremely important for the puppies.  It carries immunities that protect the puppies from infection.  The puppy's nursing will also stimulate the female's contractions allowing her labour to progress.  Take a chance to rest and relax while you can.  Don't worry, however, if you can't get the puppies on the female right away. They can go several hours without getting milk with no problem.  Once labour starts up again, move the puppies into to the incubator box for safety while the dam is distracted.

Very often there is a long break between puppies about half way through whelping.  You can take the female outside.  She may not want to leave the puppies, but you should encourage her.  You need to keep a close eye on her to make sure she doesn't deliver a puppy out there and not know what to do with it.

The puppies can come as quickly as 15 minutes apart or as long as an hour apart.  If the female goes more than an hour and you are think there are more puppies, call your vet!  There may be a puppy stuck and you will want to ensure that you get it out as soon as possible.  Failure to do so will result in puppy death and possible distress for your female.

When your female is finished whelping, you will notice her calm down.  Her breathing will slow and the contractions will stop.  You should take the female and her puppies to the vet within the next four or five hours if at all possible.  Try not to go any longer than 24 hours without having the pups and female checked out.  If the female has a retained puppy or placenta, she is at risk for serious infection.  If any of the puppies have cleft palates or other deformities, you need to know as soon as possible.  Such puppies are usually humanely euthanized by your vet as they are generally not likely to live.

There are a many problems you may run into.  Keep your vet and/or emergency vet's phone number handy in case you run into a situation you aren't prepared for.  If you have any question about what is happening or what you should do next, do not hesitate to call the vet.  You really are dealing with life or death situations and it's much better to be safe than sorry.  Ideally, you should have an experienced breeder there to help you through your first litter.

Some breeders suggest keeping some drugs on hand to help the female should she have trouble delivering.  You can discuss this with your vet but this can be very dangerous.  These drugs are very strong and can cause serious complications if the problem is a large puppy blocking the birth canal.  The best way is to keep in contact with your vet and take your female in if necessary.  Access to ultrasounds, x-rays and proper usage of drugs can save your female and her puppies.

There are some alternative medications that many breeders use and recommend now which have similar results as some of these drugs without the risk of injury.  You can search the internet or ask an experienced breeder about these methods.  No traditional or alternative medications should be administered by an inexperienced breeder.

You might see is a female that starts labour but doesn't proceed to delivering. Try walking her around outside to see if that helps her relax enough to start pushing.  If that doesn't work in about 15 minutes, you can try a technique called "feathering."  Put on surgical gloves and apply a small amount of lubricant such as KY Jelly.  Gently, gently, gently insert one finger into the female's vulva and gently tickle, or feather, her along the top of her vagina.  This may help stimulate stronger contractions.  If this doesn't produce a quick result or the female is getting tired at all, call your vet. You will be making a trip in to get some expert care.

The vet will probably want to x-ray or ultrasound your female to determine how many puppies are waiting to be born and whether or not you are dealing with a puppy trying to come out the wrong way.  If everything looks good, the vet will probably give your female injections of calcium and/or oxytocin.  These injections often stimulate strong contractions and get the labour moving along.  If they don't work, or if you are dealing with an overly large puppy or a breech, the vet will probably recommend a cesarean section.  C-sections should not be taken lightly but they are often unavoidable.  They are very expensive and put the life of the mother and puppies at great risk.  You should decide at this time whether or not you want the vet to spay your female during the C-section.  Sometimes, there won't be any choice.  If the uterus is badly damaged or infected, they will have to spay your female at this time, or recommend spaying at a later date when the blood vessels aren’t so large.  Once you reach the point of a c-section, many of the decisions will be taken out of your hands.

Discussing this possibility with your vet ahead of time is a good idea so you can find out what procedures they use and their policies on reviving puppies as they are delivered.  Many vets will not allow you into their examination area, however, some are grateful for the extra hands in reviving puppies.  One of the biggest problems with a C-section is the anesthesia given the female.  Because the puppies are still attached to her system, they will, inevitably, be anesthetized as well.  It is really important that your vet take this into consideration when anesthetizing the female.  Ask your vet to administers isoflourene gas.  The gas is much easier on the puppies systems and they will be much easier to revive.  The recovery of your female will be difficult after a c-section.  It is major abdominal surgery and puts a huge strain on her system.  However, she should still be able to care for and nurse her litter.  Your vet will give you detailed instructions for her care.  They will often prescribe antibiotics to help her avoid infection.  You should be careful administering any antibiotics as they will generally cause both the dam and the pups to have diarrhea.

In some cases you won't have time to get to the vet, an example is when you can't get a puppy breathing.  Every puppy should be rubbed vigorously until they squeak and start moving around.  Some of them are born with a squeak and don't need any additional help but some puppies need extra help.  If the vigorous rubbing doesn't work, you will want to act quickly.  The fastest way to get fluid out of the puppy's throat and nose is to hold the puppy firmly and raise it above your head and swing it quickly down between your legs.  The centrifugal force can clear the nose and throat.  Make sure that you support the puppy's head and neck while you do this so its delicate neck is not damaged.  If this doesn't work, you can try using a bulb syringe to aspirate any possible fluid.  While you are working on the pup, keep rubbing it vigorously and make sure it stays warm.  Hopefully you will be rewarded with that gasp of life and a healthy puppy.  There is nothing more rewarding than hearing that first squeak after working on a pup who wasn’t breathing.

At some point, however, you will have to give up on a puppy.  This is an extremely difficult decision but if you've worked on the puppy for 15 minutes without response, you are unlikely to revive the puppy.  Truthfully, I have worked on pups upwards to an hour.  Consult with your veterinarian about what to do with the dead puppy.  Sadly, this isn't an uncommon event in a whelping.

Again, there is no shame in calling your vet or breeder for help.  If you are unsure what to do or are presented with a situation you or your female don't understand.  Get professional help! It is a matter of life and death.

Once the whelping is over, you will be ready to let the new family settle down and get some well-deserved rest.  You will need some rest yourself.  Make sure the female has relieved herself and gotten some fluids.  You might want to give her a sponge bath so she feels clean and fresh. Feeding her chicken broth with rice is a good first meal along with a bit of Barley Water after whelping this will be gentle on her stomach but give her plenty of fluid and nutrition.

A first-time mother may have some serious doubts about these puppies, particularly if the delivery was painful for her.  It is extremely important that you get the puppies nursing both for their sake and hers.  Put the female on a down-stay, and put the puppies on her.  If she growls or complains, just keep her head away from the puppies.  She's going to be tired and won't fight you too much.  The obvious benefit here is that the pups will get that necessary colostrum which will provide them with their mother's immunities.  The added benefit, however, is that the nursing triggers the release of hormones into her bloodstream.  These hormones help promote the female's mothering instincts.  The more the puppies nurse, the more loving the mother will feel towards them, it is said.  Hopefully, the female will settle down and feel content as the puppies nurse.  Calcium depletion is a thing.  Giving calcium paste made for dogs after the puppies are born is a benefit for the Mom.

You should still supervise her with the puppies until you are sure she has fully accepted them and her new role.
Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.

Breeding Guideline

WEEK ONE (DAYS 1-7)

Development of the puppies
90% of time spent sleeping
10% eating
Susceptible to heat/cold
Instinctive reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, nurse
They can right themselves if placed upside down
Needs stimulation for urination/defecation
Rapid development of central nervous system
Need constant care from female
Rectal temperatures 94-97 degrees Farenheit
Pups may lose 10% of weight after birth, but should start gaining again
Weight should double by end of week

Care of the puppies
Chart weight daily (2 x daily first 2 days)
Examine puppies daily
Trim nails weekly
Keep whelping box around 85 F/29 C (this means if it's hotter than that out, put a fan in the room or turn on the air conditioning, if it's colder than that get a heat lamp to put above the whelping box) When you handle the puppies, it's a good idea use a towel when you hold them The puppies urinate upon stimulation and will inevitably find your attention stimulating! Dew claw and tail docking must be done between day three and day five, schedule this with your vet.

Care of the female
Keep dam on fluids for first 24 hours (i.e.. chicken broth, etc.)
Feed three full meals a day after that
Ask vet about supplements
If puppies are fussy, you could supplement female with Vitamin B complex, ask your vet
Check mammary glands twice daily (looking for signs of mastitis -- swelling, hardness, pus, etc.)
Keep an eye on vaginal discharge (looking for signs of infection)
Make sure female eats, drinks, and relieves herself

To do list
Keep detailed records on puppies' weight and behavior
Keep charting female's temperature
Call puppy buyers with results of whelping

WEEK TWO (DAYS 8-14)

Development of the puppies
Eyes should open around days 8-10
Ears should open around days 13-17
Temperatures should be around 97-99F/36-37C

Care of the puppies
Keep whelping box around 80-83F/26-28C
Begin holding puppies in different ways (applying light stress)
Trim nails weekly

Care of the female
Female should get three times her normal amount of food

To do list
Continue as above

WEEK THREE (DAYS 15-21)

Development of the puppies
Teeth begin to erupt
Puppies stand up and start walking
Begin to lap liquids
Defecate/urinate without stimulation
Start becoming aware of environment
Start playing with littermates
Develop sense of smell
Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves

Care of the puppies
Start adding stimuli (toys) to puppies' life
Start giving specific stresses when handling (i.e.. pinch an ear or toe gently).
Start giving pups milk replacer to lap for one meal a day -- after two days, add some very mushy food
Weigh puppies every 2 days
Give puppies a dirty shirt of yours to play with
Start weekly grooming sessions (brush, trim nails, look at teeth, etc.)

Care of the female
Continue as above

To do list
Purchase milk replacer to feed puppies, ask your vet

WEEK FOUR (DAYS 22-28)

Development of the puppies
Begin to eat food
Begin to bark, wag tails, bite, paw, bare teeth, growl and chase
Use legs well
Tire easily
Depth perception starts

Care of the puppies
Keep mom with them a lot! Things can get overwhelming at this age and Mom will add stability for them
Each pup needs individual attention
Offer food that is the consistency of cooked oatmeal

Care of the female
Continue as above

To do list
Start limiting female's access to pups before offering them food



WEEK FIVE (DAYS 29-35)

Development of the puppies
Group activities and sexual play will begin
Dominance order starts
Rapid growth/development

Care of the puppies
Reduce fluids in puppies' food
Make sure other people start coming to see pups
Begin weaning
Play radio at normal volume near pups for 5 minutes at a time

Care of the female
Start reducing amount of food to discourage milk development
Keep a careful eye on mammary glands

To do list
Discuss vaccination schedule with veterinarian

WEEK SIX (DAYS 26-42)

Development of the puppies
Growth and development continue

Care of the puppies
Offer soft, damp food
Chart weekly weight
Individual attention crucial -- give each puppy time with you away from litter

Care of the female
To prepare female for weaning:
Day 1 -- no food
Day 2 -- 1/4 normal maintenance meal
Day 3 -- 1/2 normal maintenance meal
Day 4 -- 3/4 normal maintenance meal
Day 5 -- full amount of normal maintenance meal
Keep female on puppy food for several weeks to help her recover from the strain of breeding, whelping, and raising puppies
Keep careful eye on mammary glands

To do list
Continue as above

WEEK SEVEN (DAYS 43-49)

Development of the puppies
Total hearing/visual capacity
Will investigate anything
Can't respond yet to name

Care of the puppies
Pups should be weaned and on regular puppy food
Pups can not go to new homes

Care of the female
Keep careful eye on mammary glands until milk is completely dried up

To do list
Continue as above



WEEK EIGHT (DAYS 50-56)

Development of the puppies
First fear period
Starts learning name

Care of the puppies
Don't ship puppies
Can start training puppies in small steps

Care of the female
Continue as above

To do list
Continue as above

WEEK 9 - WEEK 11 (DAYS 57-77)

Development of the puppies
Develops strong dominant and subordinate behavior among littermates
Begins to learn right behavior
Motor skills improve
Short attention span
Starts focusing attention on owner rather than other puppies
Separate littermates
Start house training

Care of the puppies
Continue lots of individual attention

WEEK TWELVE +(DAYS 77-84)

Development of the puppies
Safe to ship puppies by air at the end of week twelve


Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.

Finding And Dealing With Puppy Buyers


Finding good homes for your puppies should be one of your highest priorities.  This is not usually an easy task but it is a rewarding one.  Responsible breeders try to have a list of interested buyers before they do the breeding, or at least before they whelp the litter.  We implement a waiting list and screening.  Because of serious pet overpopulation no litter should be bred without a purpose.  That purpose should include providing wanted puppies to good homes.

The most effective way to find homes is by connecting into the network of breeders in your area.  This is best done by finding a breed or kennel club in your area, joining, becoming active, and taking advantage of their resources.  Some clubs publish litter listings in their newsletters to enable other club members to refer callers to those litters.  Another way is your active participation in showing, training, and working your dog makes you a better breeder.  By building a network of resources doing these activities, you open yourself up to puppy referrals.

Advertising can be useful but should be done with care.  Many breeders advertise upcoming litters in breed publications.  Newspaper ads should be considered a last resort as you should have homes lined up before the puppies are born.

When word gets out that you are doing a breeding, you'll probably start getting phone calls or e-mails from potential buyers.  You should carefully screen these buyers over the telephone and ideally in person before putting them on your puppy list.  The type of information you should be trying to get from the buyers should focus on their potential as dog owners.  Try to evaluate their intentions and their understanding of what is involved in raising, training, and caring for a Yorkie.  You should try to evaluate their home.  Do they have a fenced yard, will they will be able to provide the type of exercise and socialization appropriate for a Yorkie, are they willing to groom a Yorkie on a daily basis?

Make sure the buyer understands all the health concerns for Yorkies.  If they don't ask the right questions, you should be prepared to let them know, and explain what you have done to avoid these problems.  Also, make sure that a puppy is the right choice for them.  Some people don't really have the time or energy to raise a young puppy.

Most breeders provide a "Puppy Pack" with information with their puppies.  These packs include the bill of sale or contracts, details on what the puppy should be fed with a sample bag, details on what shots and worming the dog has been given, etc.  Puppy packs can also include descriptions of the breed, pedigrees, photos, information on training, and other items of interest.

A breeder should be willing to make a lifelong commitment to the puppies they produce.  They should be willing to answer any and all questions or concerns the owner may have at any time in the dog's life. Many breeders make a further commitment to take back a dog at any time in the future should the owner's be unable to keep the dog, which is what we offer at Annwn.  People's lives can change with little or no notice and the pets sometimes suffer.  Rather than seeing one of their puppies end up in the pound, breeders often put a "right of first refusal" into their contracts.

The CKC has a non-breeding contract.  This is a great option for breeders who want to help ensure that the puppies they produce can't get used in the future to add to the pet overpopulation problem.  This ensures that any off-spring from the puppy cannot be registered with the CKC.  The breeder can change the registration in the future should the owners and breeder agree that the pup should be bred.  The breeder is the only one who can make that change.  If you go with this a non-breeding contract you will need to explain this carefully to the buyers so that they don't misunderstand or have a problem with it when they come to collect their puppy.  Our contract states a mandatory spay/neuter clause.  Always ensure that the buyer knows what is expected of them when adopting one of your pups.  Assuming that a buyer has read the contract leads to misunderstandings.
Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.

Health Guarantees

Every breed of dog has some sort health problems associated with it.  Responsible breeders do everything in they can to avoid these problems in their litters.  Most breeders are finding some way to stand behind their breeding program by providing guarantees on their puppies.  The details will depend on the individual breeder.  You'll have to decide what you want to guarantee.  Many breeders offer money or a replacement puppy upon receipt of proof of the particular problem.

If the puppies do happen to have problems, some breeders will refund the whole purchase price with the intention of easing the veterinary bills for the owners.  Other breeders will offer a replacement puppy to the owners for sometime in the future or insist that the affected puppy(ies) are returned.  There are others who will insist that the affected puppy be spayed or neutered before honouring their guarantees.  Some offer a year guarantee and some up to five years.  Whatever you do, you need to be very clear with your buyers about your policies to avoid problems in the future. 

Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.

Breeding is never an easy way to make money.  Done right, breeding is rarely a money-making venture.  If there are any problems at all , breeding can become a financial disaster.  So, you have to be prepared for possible expenses that may or may not occur.  Keep a credit card cleared off, a credit on your vet account or a yorkie bank account in case it's needed are a few good ways to prevent lack of whelping care at the vet's.

Most breeders get a deposit of some sort from potential buyers at some point, whether on a waiting list or after the pups are born.  However way you do it please be sure to carefully explain under what circumstances you will or won't return the deposit so as to avoid unpleasantness in the future.

Whatever your deposit arrangements, you should demand payment-in-full before turning your puppies over to the new owners.  The price of the puppies depends on the market in your area. Ask around among other breeders, consider your expenses, and set a fair price for your puppies.

If you have a large litter with no problems, you can expect to pay your expenses and, perhaps, make a little extra money.  If you have any problems at all, including a small litter, you will probably loose money on breeding a litter.  Done correctly, breeding puppies is no way to make a fortune.  

Information gathered off the WWW, books and advice.